"Mother Nature" and the feminine aspect in current fashion

Based on references to his mother and sisters, Riccardo Tisci celebrates women in his most luxurious collection for Burberry
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When Riccardo Tisci debuted at Burberry, about three years ago, his first action was to reinforce the brand's connection with British culture, especially the delicious spice of eccentricity. This without giving up dear values to the vision centered on social movements: sustainability and the issue of gender in parallel with female determination. And that's the tone of winter 2021, shown in film format at the end of April. Your experience supports the creative process. “Throughout my life, my mother was this incredible force of nature. As a single mother, she raised me and my eight sisters with unwavering pride and purpose,” he said in the collection's text.

He says that the universe at home shaped his behavior. “I have always been attracted to strong women and in turn they also gave me the confidence to express my own femininity. They are not afraid to defy expectations, and I have always been amazed at their determination. They are warriors”, she describes, adding that her goal was to make the imagery context of this season truly emblematic of the power of female energy, which extends to the power of Mother Nature. It is still symbolic. Burberry has male DNA, its iconic piece was developed to accompany soldiers on the battlefield. However, over the past century, it has found space in the women's closet.

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Before the show, the creative director showed a short documentary by filmmaker Marc Isaacs with women talking about their worldviews and hopes for the future. Next, British artist Blane Muise, known as Shygirl, recited an ode to nature, creation and eternity. The setting was set for the Burberry girls to show the looks that will soon be on the racks. A feeling of fluidity connects the pieces, reinventing tradition and encouraging freedom of expression. No wonder, all of this shapes what appears to be the collection that Tisci felt most comfortable with.

It was also his most sophisticated season. Instead of the street appeal, prints and fake fur appeared, simulating fox fur, construction of fabric from strips and cutouts, with lots of gold and silver. It's mostly about details. From the glasses that cover the nose to the hem of the pants shaped like a jacket cuff, with an emphasis on the nude boot. Sexy, without a shadow of vulgarity.

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Coco and Cocteau

The friendship between Gabrielle Chanel and writer and filmmaker Jean Cocteau inspires Chanel's Cruise 2021/2022 collection

Chanel's fashion shows are a seam between its past and present. For the Cruise 2021/2022 collection, this timeline is tied around the surrealist drama The Testament of Orpheus. In it, in addition to directing, Jean Cocteau embodies a poet who cleans up his works and his own existence, ending the cycle that includes The Blood of a Poet and Orpheus. Cocteau was a friend of Gabrielle Chanel and creative director Virginie Viard is a fan of the feature film, filmed in 1960, in Carrières de Lumières, in southern France. The place, a quarry converted into a space for immersive exhibitions, became a catwalk for a black and white collection: the favorite colors of the designer's creator and also of the film's images. A punk touch gives a youthful tone, while the expressive 30% content of ecological and recycled fabrics strengthens the French brand's sustainable efforts.

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Saint Laurent shows us an epic winter

Saint Laurent contrasts urban look and the power of nature, tweeds and metallics in a new collection.

Right after the winter 2021 fashion show, Anthony Vaccarello stated that the proposal was to confront opposites, such as ideas of good and bad taste. In this game of extremes that at some point approach, he took the parade again to a landscape that left a feeling of strangeness in the air: a place that does not belong to the Saint Laurent woman. And, at the same time, the image of the smallness of human beings in the face of the grandeur and strength of nature.

If for summer 2020 he took his casting to the desert, now the destination was a cold, volcanic, and remote beach. The result had an epic tone that clashes with the collection. The 1960s style combined with half-kitsch references from the 1990s. Classic Yves suits have been reprocessed, with blazers reaching the limit of miniskirts and metallic bodysuits stealing the show. Extravagant colors, textures, and accessories form a context of fun and rebellious luxury.

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