Beauty

A new Flowerbomb perfume from Viktor and Rolf: Flowerbomb Midnight

In London we speak to master perfumer Dominique Ropion, the designer of the "Flowerbomb" perfume who called on the help of three other perfumers to make a new, younger version of the Viktor & Rolf perfume.
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Dominique Ropion is an old hand in his profession, he may have made a hundred perfumes including Alien from Thierry Mugler, La Vie Est Belle from Lancôme, Aqua Di Gioia from Armani, the Givenchy perfumes, and so much more. But also the original Flowerbomb perfume from Viktor and Rolf. Together with three other perfumers, the proportions of the formula were redistributed and new ingredients were added for a new, original interpretation.

What was it like to make a perfume with four perfumers? Did that go without a hitch? I suppose that wasn't easy?

Dominique Ropion : “That went very smoothly. After all, we started with an existing perfume: Flowerbomb, so the most difficult work had already happened. The existing formula was adapted and given a new orientation, so that the scent is sent in a different direction. Each perfumer worked on a few samples, which were subsequently presented and discussed with the marketing people. It was decided there which version was the most convincing, which interesting aspects we had to keep or adjust. And we each started using that information again. We then find out whether what we have discussed also works effectively in implementation. Perfumers often work together on projects. Everything is done in consultation. "

How was the perfume adjusted?

Dominique Ropion : “The perfume had to be a younger and a more contemporary version of Flowerbomb. It had to be more fruitful, and for that we opted for red fruit and blueberry that we combined with pomegranate. That adds fresher, sweet notes without sweetening the perfume. We provided a contrast by adding extra cachet in the base with more vanilla and powdery aspects of 'casmiran' and musk. The most radical change is in the heart note with which we added a new ingredient: 'night jasmine' to get that 'midnight' effect. Jasmine is known for the sultry scent that it emits at night. To capture that specific odor, we used a reconstruction of the molecules via a headspace technology. The scent molecules of the flower that are released are absorbed and reconstructed from other materials, so that the scent result is as close as possible to the true scent of the flower (at that very moment). This new jasmine version smells much lighter and fresher than the jasmine absolu that we normally use. Furthermore, the original notes of the perfume remained but in different proportions and quantities. "

 

 

"Many perfumers were born in Grasse and grew up on the countryside with the scent of the jasmine and rose fields. But I come from Paris, so the scent of the metro and the city are dear to me."

Which scent has left the biggest impression on you as a child and is you most concerned?

There are scents that have drawn me. Perfumes of course. But what might surprise you is that I have always loved the smell of the metro. I loved it as a child! A very specific scent that consists of the cleaning products they use, the heat and the metallic air from the spores. A scent that is cold and warm at the same time. Many perfumers were born in Grasse, and grew up with the scent of jasmine and roses in the fields on the countryside. But I am from Paris, so the smell of the metro and the city are dear to me. When I arrived in Grasse for a perfumery course, it seemed like I was from another planet, a whole new world opened up to me. ”

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