Virgil Abloh's investigation into Louis Vuitton's men's wardrobe continues. After last autumn's declarations that streetwear is on the verge of extinction for Abloh, the brand's creative director of menswear directs its trend-setter flair towards the rediscovery of the sartorial tradition. «After three seasons, the time has come to explore the etymology of Louis Vuitton's existing language. This is the first of a series of collections that will address the tradition of menswear and its traditional clientele. We don't want to get rid of everything we have learned from the street, but on the contrary, we want that culture to hybridize the history of the Maison," explained Abloh himself.
Who with the Pre-Fall 2020 men's collection decides to crystallize that moment when the boys are preparing to enter the adult phase and feel the need to review, through their own look, the classic canons of the wardrobe. The tailoring, in fact, is part of the new collection with silhouettes that turn on casual through the use of materials always devoted to sport, such as technical fabrics with camouflage print, leather, or denim, which becomes rock from chic. «Our aesthetic philosophy is built following the information that comes to us from the people who actually wear clothes. What we do is the analysis of a generation: what do people buy and why do they wear them? This question naturally creates an equal interest in tradition as in its change. But it is also about challenging yourself and exploring different territories. This is creative freedom."
So the new suit jacket and trousers in combination with a turtleneck are proposed in camouflage ribbed velvet, the collegiate coach jacket becomes a blazer with a shiny texture paired with formal trousers, all in one color with raised micro logos. Below appear shirt and tie, elements of the "corporate" style, or unusual wide-brimmed "Amish" hats.
Abloh continues: "All we do is an exploration of different dress codes. What brings a man to dress in a certain way for a certain occasion? By showing up for a job interview, you may be wearing vintage ripped jeans and a rock shirt but there are dress codes depending on the occasion. To help this thought evolve we are not throwing away all the things we have learned from streetwear. On the contrary, the road will inform us on how to change."
Accessories are everything.
The strong point is precisely the accessories, whose presence completely changes the perception of each look: "They have the power to underline a different personality. Bags and shoes are key components for expressing an attitude, they are those pieces that can alter the entire expression of an outfit. And in this case, they reinforce the entire direction of the collection."