Beauty

In the Name of the Rose: An olfactory Classic inspires Fragrance Makers

It is considered one of the oldest fragrances of mankind and even today it is impossible to imagine the art of perfumery without it. It often has to stand in the background, was even frowned upon as old-fashioned. In recent years, it has made its way back into the spotlight. In the last few months, all lovers of rose fragrances have been delighted with olfactory gems.
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It is noble, playful, tart, and mystical. Rose fragrances have a range that is rarely found in other realms of their floral colleagues. With their fine nuances, they do not belong to the royal class of perfumers' art for nothing, as they can only be transformed into a total work of art in the right proportion, which can otherwise quickly appear stale. When Gabrielle Chanel wanted to break away from the monothematic fragrances of her time for her N°5, she remained true to two great classics: May roses and jasmine. Because even Chanel could not do without them. No matter how contemporary she wanted to establish herself and was ultimately able to do so. Just a small anecdote in passing for the important component that has accompanied people through the centuries. A cultural asset whose reinterpretation always calls for the best noses in the world.

It can take up to 60,000 rose heads to produce 30 ml of pure rose oil. This ethereal natural painting then matures for between one and ten years, but is included in the original in very few perfumes - given the price.
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Musc Noir Rose - Narciso Rodriguez

Those who have already grown fond of the fragrance "For Her" by Narciso Rodriguez will be delighted with this new interpretation. Above all, the dark, mystical chords have been emphasised here. The Eau De Parfum combines both the floral rose notes and the sweet musk, which only underlines the seduction of the rose even more. Comforting warmth comes from the plum, which is the top note that unfolds the entrée of heartiness. The perfume exudes a soft velvetiness that makes it perfect for a dinner date. The designer's choice of muses is also sensual: Lola Nicon, currently the Parisian fashion designer's favourite model, was draped in the campaign film by Inez & Vinoodh
Incidentally, Narciso Rodriguez already combined the two notes in a unisex fragrance called "Rose Musc" in 2016 and included it in his luxurious "Oriental Collection Intense". Like "Musc Noir Rose", this fragrance was created by the perfumer of the house: Sonia Constant. 

"Musc Noir Rose" will be available from selected specialist retailers from February 2022.

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Photo: Narciso Rodriguez

Spell On You - Louis Vuitton

Loosely based on Nina Simone's classic "I Put A Spell On You", Louis Vuitton launched a fragrance in 2021 that is both feminine and strong. Created by Maître Parfumeur Jacques Cavallier Belletrud Nase, rose balances notes of Chinese jasmine and Tuscan iris. It is completed with base notes of peach, acacia and white musk.

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Photo: Louis Vuitton

Eau de Parfum Naturelle - Chloé

Emblematic of Chloé's signature fragrance has always been a fresh approach to the unique rose. This has always been combined with neroli jasmine to form a velvety bouquet. The new Chloé Eau de Parfum Naturelle fragrance was created by Michel Almairac and adds citrus essences to the two ingredients mentioned. These were produced on organic plantations in Morocco and Italy.

Chloé is thus continuing its efforts to become a sustainable brand: The first upcycling collection for Spring/Summer 2022 was presented as early as 2021. A novelty among luxury brands.

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Photo: Chloé

Rose Prick - Tom Ford

You have to be Tom Ford to associate the rose in this form with the slang word for penis. The fact that the perfume in innocent pink immediately catches the eye will probably be in the spirit of the inventor, who dedicated himself to the rose scent as early as 2020 and drew inspiration from his private rose garden. Unambiguous? Ambiguous? Now we're already probably questioning everything ... The naming will not be surpassed so quickly in these times of political correctness.

The interior is less disreputable: here the May rose meets the Turkish and Bulgarian rose. Turmeric, Szechuan pepper, patchouli, and tonka bean were chosen for the spicy notes. Tonka bean, which is known to have a vanilla aroma, underlines the sweetness of the rose notes.

Tom Ford even created a limited edition Rose Prick Make-Up Collection, which consisted of a Compact Powder, a Lip Colour in Satin Matte "26 To Die For" and an eyeshadow palette.

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Photo: Tom Ford

Cartier

Cartier launched three fragrances in 2021, all paying homage to the rose. 

  • L'Heure Osée from the Les Heures de Parfum Collection, which comes with notes of a pink rose.
  • Pure Rose from Les Épures de Parfum Collection, which combines the pure undertone of rose with freshness. 
  • Oud et Pink from Les Heures Voyageuses Collection. A unisex fragrance that combines rose and oud. A trend that perfume makers have recently indulged in. 

Developed by the Maison's perfumer, Mathilde Laurent, it combines rose with the various lines from the house's High Perfumery Collection. 

 
 

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Photo: Cartier

Red Roses - Jo Malone London
(2022 Special Collection) 

"Over the years, we have created many different floral fragrances. Almost subconsciously, we keep coming back to the rose, so it seemed natural to celebrate this timeless flower with our own collection," reveals Celine Roux, Global Head of Fragrance at Jo Malone London. Red Roses, launched in 2001 and conceived by Lucien Piquet and Patricia Bilodeau, has already achieved cult status. So it's no wonder that more than 20 years later they want to pay homage to this icon with an update. The classic "Red Roses" has been chosen, along with "Rose Blush", "Velvet Rose & Oud" and "Rose & Magnolia". 

This means that there is an entire Special Collection, which will be available at Douglas from January 2022. In addition to colognes, the collection also includes room fragrances and candles.

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Photo: Jo Malone London

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fashion
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chanel
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