Fashion Week

Chloé 2020: France and China

On the terrace of The Long museum, Natacha Ramsay-Levi stages a pre-collection inspired by Chinese cinema, combining it with 70s touches and Art Deco tracks. For a bohemian femmilità, in dialogue between Paris and Shanghai
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"In these shows there are my personal memories of that China that I had the chance to live and get to know above all through cinema". Under the industrial arches of The Long museum in Shanghai, the largest private Chinese museum dedicated to contemporary art, Chloé's pre-spring collection 2020 is staged . In the background, the night of Shanghai that is starting, while the lights of the skyscrapers light up. The girls imagined by Natasha Ramsay-Levi move among the windows overlooking the Huangpu River and the roofs dressed in shining ventilation ducts. They tell a dialogue between Paris and the former Celestial empire, a dialogue with bourgeois traits and bohemian inflections. In the minimalist space, chosen by the designer of the Richemont brand for her first show dedicated to a pre-collection, a Chloé girls parade materializes that tells the story of the designer's fascination for the fifth generation of Chinese cinema, with volitional silhouettes and inflections masculine, combined with ethereal and delicate constructions. A dualism, dear to the founder Gaby Aghion, which punctuates the whole show. In a succession of mannish rigor and feminine delicacy. To tie the collection a potato of ancient silks, daughters of Chinese history, used to create suits with light pijamas but also dresses with a slipped construction. And then the denim, vaguely 70s. XXL proportioned shirts or column tunics inflated at every step. The masculine blazers tight at the waist and the elongated coats, cut in redingote. Art Deco punctuation animates some looks, including flowered shoots and a new geometric version of the logo inspired by an original archival design. To the mind, while slender girls with disruptive eyes and volitional femininity parade, the cult films of names like Zhang Yimou or Bi Gan return. But also, and above all, the heroines who have materialized them on the big screen. Goddesses like Gong Li or Shu Qi. «These women have been incredible figures ... In reality, Chinese femininity fascinates me and how women manage to tell the fashion, interpreting it and making it their own. They have a proud and modern cool beauty that is part of the essence of the Chloé woman, "he concluded.


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