Jewellery

Coromandel - an exploration in the heart of the intimate

For his latest collection Coromandel, Chanel Jewelry has become inspired by old plates, the Mademoiselle came from China.
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Stuffed, stiff, fine jewelry? Not really. It would be rather the exact opposite. The presentations that took place at the beginning of July, during the week devoted to haute couture fashion shows, brought to light some cheerful collections: most of the houses in Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix gave pride of place to the values ​​of party, sharing. A joy characterized by a rich palette that itself echoed the variety of continents and horizons. All the houses, Cartier, Chaumet, Bulgari, Mellerio seemed to have taken the word to question the creative diversity of the world. The tones of Africa vibrated in Chaumet, the powerful colors of Italian electric nights exploded at Bulgari, the fresh hues of the Borromean Islands intoxicated the jewelry Mellerio said Meller. And while Piaget chiselled the Arctic light with generosity, Cartier addressed a vibrant - and exhaustive - ode to the colors of the globe, combining, from one adornment to another, the subtle shades of Japan, the contrasts affirmed by Asia or the East. Everywhere, this same desire to exalt the joy of living. It should be noted in passing that this joy was technically expressed by unparalleled chromatic combinations: a skilful way to enhance the prestige of fine gemstones - tourmaline, morganite, garnets - alongside the more traditional precious stones such as ruby, sapphire, gold and silver. emerald and diamond.

Inspiring landscapes

This universal curiosity was also confirmed at Chanel Joaillerie. But in a different way, less literal, and finally deeper. The "Coromandel" collection features fifty-nine pieces, including twenty-four unique pieces, all inspired by the lacquer universe of the same name. We all had the opportunity to meet one of these famous shots of Gabrielle Chanel surrounded by lacquer panels. These precious objects are Coromandel's screens, Chinese lacquers, of incomparable brilliance. The designer never seems so happy as when her intimacy is lined with these enchanting landscapes: she observes at pleasure boats and palaces, birds with golden reflections, dark and red flowers. Perhaps she was traveling by thought on the shores of the East Indies, roaming the dreamlike landscapes of a fabulous China. "The lacquer is my element, it does not jump you to the face." The designer had bought thirty-two screens of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. She gave many, but some are still in the apartment at 31, rue Cambon. They have a large share in the legend Chanel.

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Jewelery marquetry

The creation studio and the Chanel Joaillerie workshops have been based on the chromatic range of Coromandel lacquers (by refracting them in the green of tsavorite garnets, in the red of ruby beads , in velvety emeralds, in red spinel , onyx) to compose a collection which revolves around three themes: the floral, the bestiary and the mineral. The pieces of bravery follow one another: reversible cuff, yellow gold plastron punctuated with mother-of-pearl clouds and diamonds, and - our favorite - a wonderful score around the bird, a theme little exploited by the house: the birds seem to be about to take flight, especially on a ring adorned with a diamond dazzling more than ten carats. It is masterfully executed, graceful, hypnotic. But the main feat is not there.

Gabrielle Chanel discovered the Coromandel screens during the 1910s. A decade marked by an extraordinary atmosphere of creativity, intellectual excitement, freedom of spirit. A decade of friendship too. At least for young Coco, who established during these years the base of a dazzling cenacle at the heart of which evolved avant-garde artists and leading personalities. Decisive years, major, for the one who was not yet a sacred monster, but a modiste gifted, already appreciated for its ability to be against the current usages and banalities of his time. The most remarkable feat of the workshops and the studio Chanel Joaillerie, it is to have been able to make us touch the finger, by the vigor of their know-how and the extent of their stylistic register, the effervescence of a time and existence. For this, they have composed with the collection "Coromandel" a jeweler's marquetry of the different moments that have composed the inner panorama of the young Gabrielle Chanel. Each jewel, rather than strictly reproducing the colors and forms of a distant landscape, unfolds the inner quest for existence in search of its essence. An inspiring journey: it is from the intimate that true universality is born.

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